The most important tool used in successful housebreaking is the kennel. It will decrease
accidents as well as be a safe haven for your puppy. If he is not crate trained, see crate-
training sheet.
There are several things to consider to be successful in your puppy’s housebreaking:
KENNEL SIZE
The kennel should be big enough for your puppy to stand, turn around and lay down. He
should not be able to eliminate in one corner and sleep in another. Dogs naturally keep their
sleeping areas clean. If you have a pup that eliminates in his crate and sleeps/steps/plays in
it, contact a professional to help you with that problem. If you have a large breed puppy,
get a larger kennel and place a divider in it that can be moved as he grows. Something as
simple as a cardboard box may do.
HOW OFTEN TO WALK
At first your puppy should be taken out every hour or so (8 wks. of age). The time between
walks should increase as their bladder control increases. By 10 to 12 wks. most pups should
be able to wait 3 to 4 hours. Rule of thumb is to increase the time your dog can wait by an
hour for each month of age. So, a dog that is 4 months old should be able to wait for four
hours. If your dog is older, but still not housebroken, still take him out every hour.
WHEN TO WALK
You should always walk your pup after they wake up, after meals (fifteen minutes or so),
after getting out of their kennel and obviously when they “look like they are going to go”.
Pay close attention during playtime as pups will go more often when they are active.
WHERE TO WALK
Take your puppy to the same spot each time you walk him. Eventually he will know what is
expected of him when he goes to that place.
HOW TO WALK
Each time you take your puppy to eliminate, say “outside” as you walk him through the door
on his leash. Ask your dog to sit at the door before you open it, if he knows the command.
Sitting at the door will become a signal. Go to “the spot” and wait. Don’t look at your dog or
talk to him. Don’t walk around. Wait about as long as it takes to silently count to 300. As
soon as you see your dog squat or lift his leg say, “do your business”, “go potty” or some
other word you’ll always use. Give him a treat as soon as he finishes going. Now, play a bit
with your dog or go for a walk. He will understand, “business first, play later”. This will
help you get a super fast pottier! (Treats will slowly be phased out).
ALWAYS take puppies out on leash. This way they are safe and you are able to administer
treats immediately after their business has been taken care of. Even if you have a fenced in
yard, still take them out on leash during the training stage. If you reward them when they
return to the house instead of after eliminating, they will associate the treat with coming to
the house, not “going” outside. Also, use the same door; your pup will begin to go to that door
on his or her own.
Finally, two other helpful hints:
Feed your puppy at specific times during the day. This way you will have a better
idea when your pup has to go outside. “What goes in on schedule comes out on schedule.” If
your dog is not used to eating at specific times, it is easy to change. Put his food down in the
morning for 15 minutes. Pick it up after that amount of time even if he hasn’t eaten. Do the
same in the evening (or in the afternoon and evening for young pups). If he doesn’t eat his
usual amount for a couple of days, don’t worry, he’ll get the hang of it and won’t starve.
Also, if you are getting up often at night, take up your pup’s water a few hours before bed.
Keep your puppy in your view 100% of the time unless he/she is in his/her kennel or
attached to you with his/her leash! This will decrease accidents, which will help
housebreaking to go quicker and easier. Don’t allow him full access to the house yet (for
chewing reasons as well). Each mistake is a step backwards which is YOUR FAULT, not your
puppy’s. If you do catch your puppy starting to go inside, interrupt by making a loud noise
and say “outside” and speed them out there. Praise and reward after they finish outside.
NEVER rub your puppy’s nose in “it”, especially if you don’t catch them. This could lead to
feces eating and your puppy doesn’t understand what they did wrong. It does no good.
• * If you take your puppy outside after they have been in the kennel and after 5
minutes or so they still do not go, put them back in the kennel and wait another 10 to 15
minutes and go out again. Keep repeating this until they eliminate outside. (You might have
to get up a bit earlier than you’re used to…be patient, if you are consistent it won’t take
long).
• * Make sure you clean up all accidents with a cleaner that contains enzymes to be sure
that the odor is completely gone. Two examples are Nature’s Miracle and Eliminate.